Empanada Gallega de Atún

Empanada gallega isn’t the hand-held turnover most people picture when they hear “empanada.” It’s one big pie, baked in a dish and sliced into squares, and in Galicia it’s built around whatever filling is on hand, tuna most classically.

The dough is a real yeasted, olive-oil-enriched masa, closer to a bread than a pastry, and it’s what actually makes this dish what it is (short on time? See the Notes for a store-bought shortcut). The filling is the other half of the work: a tomato-and-pepper sofrito cooked down until it’s thick, not saucy, folded together with tuna and hard-boiled egg.

What You’re Learning

Why the dough gets a real rise. Empanada gallega’s masa is enriched with olive oil and given a full proof, the same basic logic as any yeasted bread, so it bakes up sturdy enough to hold a substantial filling without turning gummy, and with real flavor of its own rather than just being a neutral wrapper.

Why the sofrito has to cook down all the way. Tomatoes release a lot of water as they cook, and a wet filling sitting inside the dough steams it from the inside instead of letting it bake through properly. The sofrito needs to reduce until it’s thick and jammy, with the liquid actually gone, not just simmered for a few minutes. Rushing this step is the single most common reason the bottom of the pie turns out soggy.

Why the filling cools before assembly. Warm filling is harder to spread evenly and makes the dough slick and difficult to seal. Let the sofrito come fully to room temperature first, it firms up slightly and holds together much better once the top layer of dough goes on.

Ingredients

Serves 6.

• 4 cups (500g) all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
• 2¼ tsp (1 packet) active dry yeast
• 1 tsp sugar
• 1 cup (240ml) warm water (about 110°F)
• ¼ cup (60ml) olive oil, plus 3 tbsp more for the filling
• 1½ tsp salt, divided
• 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped
• 1 green bell pepper, finely chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tsp sweet paprika (pimentón dulce)
• 2 medium tomatoes, grated, or 1 cup crushed tomato
• Black pepper, to taste
• 3 cans (5 oz each) tuna in olive oil, drained
• 2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
• 1 egg, beaten, for egg wash

Method

1. Activate the yeast. In a small bowl, whisk the warm water, yeast, and sugar. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes, until foamy.
2. Mix the dough. In a large bowl, combine the flour and 1 tsp of the salt. Add the yeast mixture and ¼ cup olive oil, and mix until a shaggy dough forms.
3. Knead. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead 8 to 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic.
4. Rise. Place in an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm spot 60 to 90 minutes, until roughly doubled.
5. Make the sofrito while the dough rises. Heat the remaining 3 tbsp olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and both peppers, and cook 10 to 12 minutes, until soft.
6. Add garlic and paprika. Stir in the garlic and paprika, and cook 1 minute, until fragrant.
7. Reduce. Add the tomato, season with the remaining ½ tsp salt and black pepper, and cook 15 to 20 minutes, until thick and jammy with the liquid mostly gone.
8. Cool completely. Transfer the sofrito to a bowl and let it come fully to room temperature.
9. Fold in the tuna and egg. Once cool, stir in the drained tuna and chopped hard-boiled eggs.
10. Divide and roll the dough. Once risen, punch down and divide into two pieces, one slightly larger than the other. Roll the larger piece into a rectangle and lay it on a parchment-lined rimmed half-sheet pan.
11. Fill. Spread the filling evenly over the dough.
12. Top and seal. Roll the second piece of dough to fit, lay it over the filling, and pinch the edges together to seal. Cut a few small steam vents in the top.
13. Egg wash and bake. Brush the top with beaten egg. Bake at 375°F (190°C) for 35 to 40 minutes, until deep golden.
14. Rest and slice. Let it rest 10 minutes before slicing into squares.

Notes

• Short on time? Substitute 2 sheets of thawed store-bought puff pastry for the dough entirely, skip steps 1 through 4 and 10 through 12, and bake at 400°F (200°C) for 35 to 40 minutes instead. The filling doesn’t change either way.
• A watery sofrito is the number one cause of a soggy bottom crust. Cook it down further than feels necessary, it should look thick and jammy, not saucy.
• Tuna packed in olive oil has more flavor than water-packed here; drain it well either way.
• Freezes well unbaked. Assemble, wrap tightly, and freeze; bake straight from frozen, adding 10 to 15 minutes.
• Let it rest before slicing or the squares won’t hold together.
• Good warm or at room temperature, a classic Galician picnic food.