Croquetas de Cocido Madrileño

Cocido madrileño is Madrid’s great chickpea stew, simmered low with beef, chicken, chorizo, and ham, then served in stages: broth first, then chickpeas and vegetables, then the meats. Croquetas are what happens the next day, when the leftover meats get a second life as the city’s favorite tapa.

No leftover cocido on hand is fine too. Poach chicken thighs and a piece of chuck roast until tender, shred both, and you’ve got the same filling. The technique that actually makes or breaks these is the béchamel: thicker than you’d use for anything else, and rested cold before it’s ever shaped.

What You’re Learning

Why the béchamel goes so thick. A normal béchamel for gratins or lasagna is pourable. A croqueta béchamel is cooked down until it’s closer to stiff mashed potatoes, thick enough to hold a shape with a spoon. That extra reduction time is what lets you roll and bread the mixture at all instead of it collapsing into a puddle in the fryer.

Why it has to chill before it’s shaped. Warm béchamel is unworkable, it sticks to your hands and won’t hold a form. A few hours in the fridge (or overnight, which is traditional, since croquetas are a next-day dish anyway) firms the mixture enough to roll, bread, and fry without it falling apart in the oil.

Ingredients

Makes about 16-18 croquetas, serves 4.

• 4 tbsp (60g) unsalted butter
• 4 tbsp (30g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
• 2 cups (480ml) whole milk, warmed
• 1 cup (150g) finely chopped leftover cocido meats (chicken, beef, and jamón serrano or chorizo)
• Pinch of ground nutmeg
• Salt and black pepper, to taste
• 2 large eggs, beaten
• 1½ cups (150g) fine dried breadcrumbs (pan rallado)
• Neutral oil, for frying

Method

1. Make the roux. Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, 2 minutes, until it smells toasted and no raw flour remains.
2. Build the béchamel. Add the warm milk a splash at a time, whisking out lumps after each addition. Once it’s all in, cook 12 to 15 minutes, stirring often, until the mixture is very thick, thick enough that a spoon dragged through leaves a clear trail.
3. Fold in the meats. Stir in the chopped cocido meats, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Cook 2 more minutes to heat through and let the flavors meld.
4. Chill. Spread the mixture into a shallow dish, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface, and refrigerate at least 4 hours, ideally overnight.
5. Shape. Scoop tablespoon portions and roll into short cylinders with floured hands.
6. Bread. Dredge each croqueta in flour, dip in beaten egg, then coat in breadcrumbs, pressing gently so the coating sticks.
7. Fry. Heat 2 inches of oil to 350°F (175°C). Fry the croquetas in batches, 2 to 3 minutes, turning once, until deep golden all over.
8. Drain and serve. Lift out with a slotted spoon onto a paper-towel-lined plate. Serve immediately, while the shell is still crisp.

Notes

• Don’t undercook the béchamel. If it’s not thick enough before it chills, the croquetas will split open in the fryer no matter how cold they get.
• No cocido leftovers? Poach chicken thighs and a piece of chuck roast (beef shank works well too) in salted water until fork-tender, then shred both for the same result.
• Test the oil before the first batch. Drop in a pinch of breadcrumbs, if it sizzles and rises immediately, the oil’s ready.
• Fry in small batches. Crowding the pot drops the oil temperature and the coating turns greasy instead of crisp.
• Freeze uncooked and breaded, on a tray until solid, then bag them. Fry straight from frozen, adding 1 to 2 minutes.
• Traditional to serve as a tapa on their own, or with a small bowl of alioli for dipping.